Ask House Spouse · Doors & Windows · Locks & Hardware
How do I fix a door that won't latch properly?
Short answer
A door that won't latch either has a strike plate that's out of alignment (most common) or the door itself has sagged. Close the door slowly and mark where the latch hits the strike — if it's above or below the hole, either move the strike plate or shim the top hinge to lift the latch side back into place.
Diagnose alignment
Rub a strip of chalk on the latch, close the door, and open it. The chalk mark on the strike plate tells you exactly where it's hitting. High = door sagging, tighten or shim the top hinge. Low = tighten or shim the bottom hinge. Left/right = file the strike hole.
The hinge-shim trick
Take out the top hinge screws and slip a business card behind the hinge (between hinge and jamb). This tilts the door slightly, raising the latch side. Two cards raises it more. It's a five-minute non-permanent fix that works in most cases.
When to replace hardware
If the latch itself doesn't spring back when you press it, or the deadbolt drags no matter how the door is hung, the mechanism is worn. A quality Kwikset or Schlage replacement is $35–$120 and installs in 20 minutes.
What we see on Home Health Assessments
Roughly 66% of homes have at least one exterior door with compromised weatherstripping — a top driver of PNW winter heating loss.
Caught early on assessment: $95–$260 · Left until failure: $200–$900
Based on real experience across Snohomish and King County, doors & windows issues like this are among the ones homeowners most often miss until they become expensive. Our Home Health Assessment catches them early — while they're still a maintenance item, not a repair.
How the Home Health Assessment worksServices we'd bring to this job
Related questions
Doors & Windows · Weatherstripping & Drafts
How do I stop drafts around my front door?
Replace the door sweep first (the strip along the bottom) — it's the single biggest source of PNW cold air infiltration. Then run a lit candle around the perimeter on a windy day: any flicker is a leak. Foam weatherstripping in the jamb takes 20 minutes and fixes the top and sides.
Safety & Prevention · Smoke & CO Detectors
How often should smoke and CO detectors be replaced?
Smoke detectors: replace the whole unit every 10 years (the sensor degrades regardless of battery). CO detectors: 5–7 years depending on brand — check the sticker on the back for the exact replace-by date. If either detector is over its date, replace it now, then set a calendar reminder for the next one.